clutch box done!

ok, I’ve been slacking on the updating of the blog but I have been putting time in on the Javelin. The saga of the “clutch box” has come to an end. I’m reasonably happy with it. my welds are not the best looking but they’re solid and you can’t see the welds under the dynamat. oh yeah, the dynamating has begun. more on that later.

1973 Javelin-street, Interior, pedals

2 comments


  1. Dan V

    I stuck a ford style Tremec TKO behind my AMC 360 Javelin several years ago and have been running the mechanical linkage but have been considering the hydraulic option now that I’m due for a new clutch. What type of hydraulic setup are you using? Why did you convert? How much in costs to get the clutch setup done? Overall, would you have done it again? I’ve considered the Keisler option, but since I run the spacer plate b/t the stock short bellhousing, I’m concerned about how to bolt the throwout to the tranny’s bearing retainer. You have any experience with or thoughts on that?
    Thanks

  2. Hey Dan,
    I’m not running a hydraulic throwout bearing. I’m running an hydraulic slave cylinder that bolts to the side of the tranny and pushes the clutch fork instead of using the stock z-bar (bell crank) setup to do that. I’m very happy with it. I bought the tranny and all the parts from Forte’s Parts http://www.fortesparts.com/. The slave cylinder was an option and probably added $200 – $300 dollars to the total bill. I had originally converted my car from auto to manual and was never happy with the stock z-bar setup. My friend has a stock z-bar in his ’69 AMX and honestly it feels great. So I think a lot of my problem was due to mismatched parts. However, I’m happy with the hydraulic setup and would definitely do it again. you don’t have to scrounge up all the z-bar pieces, bushings, etc. If you have any other questions, let me know…

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *