got cage? American Iron Javelin update…

ok, big milestone. The AI Javelin went to the cage builder today. Evil Genius racing in West Sacramento is going to do the cage, install the fuel cell, seat, pedals and do the 3-link rear end. I ordered a 22-gal Fuel Safe Enduro fuel cell. It’s FT3 certified (whatever that means) which is required by the rules (unless you’re running a stock gas tank). borrowed my friends tow rig to get it there. Haven’t done any towing since 2001 when I still had my Formula Ford. Everything went well and we got the car there safely. They’ll probably have it for 2 to 3 weeks and then I get it back to continue the build. Here’s a couple of pics…

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5 thoughts on “got cage? American Iron Javelin update…”

  1. Not sure if you already started it or not, but one thing I was thinking you could do for those of us interested in recreating your build (in whole or in part) is to make a list of your purchases and their costs. I’ve got a 74 Javelin that is sort of a pro-touring car but probably will never be a full race car. I am interested in tracking down a 71-74 Javelin to start a project like you’re already working on. Mine may first be a TT car and then I’ll make the full jump over to AI.
    Anyway, the list might be a good way to get feedback from people who have already made some improvements your planning on doing, including ways to keep your costs down.
    Just a thought…and great blog!!! Love the videos so keep them coming.

  2. hey, thanks for the comments! cheapest way to get into any racing is to buy someone else’s race car. generally you’ll pay 50 cents on the dollar for someone else’s used race car vs. what it will cost to build. if you’ve got “AMC disease” like me than you’re screwed because there are no other AMC race cars to buy 🙂

    I can tell you right now this car will cost close to $25K !!! and that’s just the cost of entry. I need a tow vehicle, trailer, entry fee’s, tires are $1k for a set of 4. racing is EXPENSIVE 🙁

    however, if you just want to get on track here’s my quick recipe for a cheaper track toy.

    1. high temp brake fuild $20
    2. power steering cooler $30
    3. rig up a rear-end fluid catch can $20+
    4. put in an extra quart of oil $5

    that’s it! have at it!

    options
    5. get some cheap used wheels and put some DOT legal competition tires on $1000
    6. get a cheap, used racing seat off craigslist $200
    7. upgrade brake pads

    just to get out there and have a blast does not take much of an investment. if you want to race/time trial and be competitive then obviously it’s going to take more $ but I think the best approach is to get out there as soon as you can and see if you like it.

    btw, where are you located?

  3. I’m down in PHX now. I used to live up in Denver and ran my car a few times at Second Creek before it shut down (as well as a handful of Solo II events). I recently blew my 360 up at a NASA event, thanks to a major distributor failure, while running at Firebird. As a result, the 401 I’ve been hauling around for the last several years is finally getting built and hopefully will be complete after the new year.

    Anyway, that experience got me to thinking that I really want a purpose built race car so I’m not Javelin-less in case of any other failures.

    By the way, what motor/engine combo are you planning on using? I noticed the NASA AI class decided to add a torque/weight limit on top of having the hp/weight limit finally. So that got me to thinking a 304 build may have actually become relevant if your weight comes in low. Probably not, but just wondering.

  4. Hi,
    I was doing some searching trying to find parts for my 73 jav, and I came across your blog page. I am trying to get the word out that I am searching to get all the help I can. I am converting from a 3 sped auto to a 4spd manual. I am trying to stay as original as possible and am looking for bell housing transmission clutch fork ball swinging pedal assembly, the linkage, and possibly a console conversion. Like I said I would to stay as original as possible with date sensitive parts being produced relatively early Do you have information that might be helpful to me? Thank You

  5. hey Matthew, wish I could help but I’m about the last guy you want to talk to about date coded parts. I converted from auto to a t10 before moving on to the tremec I’m running now. I think I bought most of that stuff off ebay. I wasn’t looking for any particular part dates. The problem is you wind up get bits from different cars/years. So maybe you get an early bellhousing but a later bell crank, etc, etc. I would try ebay and the two main AMC forums (look on the right column of my blog for links to them). Where are you located? another good source would be a local AMC club. Good luck!